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Stories from the Mokume Gane workshop - about rings, wedding rings, pendants and experiences

 

 

First of all - what is mokume gane?

Mokume Gane is a traditional Japanese forging technique in which several layers of different metals are fused together and then worked to create a pattern with wood-like textures. The technique is often used to create jewelry, wedding rings, knives and other works of art. A more detailed, historical account can be found in our article on the history of mokume gane.

The exchange of rings symbolizes the union of partners and the beginning of a new era.

In order to give the event the appropriate stage and at the same time the highest possible value, valuable metals are used in the manufacture of the partner rings. A special form of this is mokume gane, in which the partner rings are created according to Japanese art. Different metals are welded together and processed, whereby this process creates unique grains in the metal block. With partner rings, care is taken to ensure that they are made from the same layered block to ensure the greatest possible similarity.

Camaru rings for life in Mokume Gane

Camaru rings in Mokume Gane, with a very strong pattern. Palladium and silver alternate.

Today we were able to complete a wonderful Mokume Gane pendant for one of our customers.

Master goldsmith Markus Wiesner worked out the concept together with the customer.

Using the same materials and patterns as previously used to make mokume gane wedding rings, a ring was first welded and forged from yellow gold, palladium and silver.

However, instead of forming the ring as such, it was shaped into a flat disk. As the engraving template also required the space inside the mokume gane ring, the center was closed with a round plate in 750 yellow gold. To complete the pendant, it was then given a loop in palladium so that the previously selected chain could be attached to it.

MOkume Gane pendant with personalized engraving

Our master engraver then hand-engraved the engraving template. Although the already lively pattern of the mokume gane structures draws the eye, the shine of the hand engraving, which is created by cutting out the metal, allows the ornamentation to be presented very clearly.

Old becomes new | Wedding rings made from old gold

Today was the day again. The collection container for precious metal scraps and shavings was filled with a good 1.3 kilos of various precious metals. These collected shavings, which are produced during the  MokumeGane wedding rings manufacturing process, contain a proportion of the materials we process: yellow gold, red gold, palladium, platinum and silver. For the recovery of the precious metals, through chemical separation, we commission a so-called refinery, which carries out these chemical processes for us under controlled compliance with environmental regulations. Before leaving our premises, we melt the precious metal waste into a solid bar, which is then analyzed by us for its ingredients.

The chipped mokume gane material is brought to around 2000 degrees Celsius in the melting pot by means of induction. With the addition of alloy-promoting copper and careful stirring of the melt, a very homogeneous ingot is then produced when the mold is poured. Homogeneous here refers to the even distribution of the precious metals within the finished ingot. In this way, reliable values that correspond to the entire ingot are obtained when measuring the fine content using the X-ray fluorescence method.


This melting, and above all the pouring of the 2000 degree hot metal, is regularly nerve-wracking, as the slightest mistake can lead to accidents with devastating consequences. However, this effort is appropriate and beneficial to support the mutual trust between our workshop and the recycling company.

Stories from the workshop - Mokume Gane wedding ring - lost diamond

From time to time, we receive visits from customers who have had some bad luck with their mokume gane wedding rings. Whether they were made in our workshop or, as in this case, by someone else. In this ladies' ring, which is set all around with diamonds, a stone has been lost. Of course, this can happen in rare cases and can have a variety of reasons. Either the diamond has received a knock during everyday use and has broken, which is very likely in the case of this ring, as the setting shows no signs of damage. Or the setting on this particular stone could have been a little too tight, so that the stone fell out when it was shaken. We are expecting an expert analysis from our jewel setter shortly.

Mokume Gane wedding ring - repair

Complaint | Guarantee or bad luck?

The customer who brought us her ring for repair naturally contacted the manufacturer of her Mokume Gane wedding rings first. A large, high-turnover company with location goodwill. However, she did not receive a very warm welcome. The solutions suggested to the ladies there for the repair of the lost diamond seem interesting to us. First of all, to replace one diamond, apparently all the stones would have to be set and reset, which was estimated to cost around 400 euros. When asked whether this was not a warranty case, it was supposed to be even more expensive. An expert was to decide whether it was a warranty case or not, and the wedding ring customer would also have to pay the fee of around 300 euros.

The solution

The replacement of the diamond with a size of 0.01 carat in TW vsi quality is expected to cost a maximum of 100 euros. This includes the setting of a new diamond and a complete overhaul of the ring in our workshop. The entire 52 stones do not have to be removed and re-set. 

This week we were able to complete some very special wedding rings for a bridal couple.

The basic design of the rings consists of the Iroko rings and is forged from palladium and silver. The special thing about these wedding rings is that the basic shape is not round, but square. However, the sides of the square are curved, creating a hybrid shape of square and circle. The corners of these special wedding rings are pleasantly rounded, creating a fluttering pattern in the mokume gane that would not otherwise appear.

Mokume Gane square wedding rings

The ladies' ring has also been enhanced with a 0.16 carat TWvvs princess cut diamond.

Ingenious look. The Mokume Gane wedding ring pair Jaboty...

...in 8 and 10 mm widths offer plenty of surface on which the pattern of the Japanese forging technique can be seen. The colors of the Jaboty rings are also beautifully displayed. Red gold, yellow gold, palladium and silver merge to create a completely new overall impression. This pair of wedding rings also clearly shows how the pattern of the two rings is different, although both rings are made from one piece of welded base material.

Mokume Gane wedding rings can be individualized by changing the colors.

In our basic Jaboty pattern, the precious metals are put together in a fixed order and layer thickness. By changing this sequence, for example, the pattern result varies. The rings often appear with a completely different overall impression. By changing the thickness of the layers, it is also possible to highlight individual colors or allow them to fade into the background. These variations open up a whole cornucopia of possibilities and completely newly invented unique pieces.

Mokume Gane wedding rings Jaboty very wide

Mokume Gane rings Jaboty in size and number

  • 750 yellow gold | 585 red gold | 500 palladium | 925 silver
  • 8 and 10 mm wide | 2 mm profile height
  • Ring profile, slightly curved inside and outside
  • Wedding rings hand-forged by Markus Wiesner without seam and joint 

Each pair of Mokume Gane rings is a "unique pair"

Thanks to the above-mentioned variation options of the basic pattern of the Mokume Gane wedding rings Jaboty, we can cater to every special request of the bridal couple, no matter how small. In this way, completely new and unique wedding rings are created time and time again. In addition to the basic patterns that we have come up with in our studio, you are welcome to challenge us and bring your own ideas for a color and pattern design. We will then be happy to discuss with you what your rings for life could look like.

Unique wedding rings forged in Mokume Gane fulfill all wishes

Thank you very much for your great rating on google and the wonderful wedding pictures with your Mokume Gane wedding rings on them. The picture with the rings on the bridal bouquet is of course great. The one in black and white with the wedding rings on your hands is totally awesome. Although Mokume Gane wedding rings actually live strongly from their colors, the structure of your beautiful unique pieces is particularly beautiful here.

Unique pieces forged with passion

Yes, it is indeed always a great pleasure for us to produce such ingenious unique wedding rings. It's even more of a pleasure when the bride and groom are so enthusiastic about our work and are excited about such an important detail as the wedding rings. After all, they will accompany the couple for a lifetime.

Wedding photo Mokume Gane wedding rings Ramon

Wedding foro Ramon wedding rings

Fascinating structures meet classic wedding ring design

The wedding ring model so beautifully photographed here combines the lively and wild structures of mokume gane very successfully with classic stylistic elements familiar from wedding rings. A princess-cut diamond fits perfectly into the mokume gane due to its setting as a tension ring, or as an upgrade tension ring. Why upgrade? At first glance, the diamond looks as if it is freely tensioned. However, it conceals a bridge beneath it, which connects both sides of the ring shank and thus ensures that the stone sits securely. Apart from platinum, no other precious metal offers sufficient tension to hold the stone securely. For this reason, we have included this security in this Mokume Gane ladies' ring made of yellow gold, rose gold, palladium and silver.

The fine rows of diamonds in the ladies' ring are deliberately worked harmoniously into the mokume gane structure.

Thank you very much

Finally, we, Markus and Michael Wiesner, would like to thank you once again for the order for such wonderful unique pieces.

Best regards from the goldsmiths

Brilliantly unusual pair of wedding rings

An extraordinarily beautiful pair of Mokume Gane wedding rings in the precious metals yellow gold | red gold | palladium | silver. The outstanding feature of both rings is that they are each adorned with a curved line of flawless diamonds.

Although the two rings appear to be the same at first glance, a closer look reveals that one of the two wedding rings contains a delicate line of rose gold, while the other ring is in yellow gold, palladium and silver.

Even such differences can be realized in one piece of Mokume Gane ingot and a pair of rings can be forged from it. Both made from one piece of welded layered material.

MOkume Gane Rings Limba

Rings in Limba Mokume Gane with an additional strip of red gold and small diamonds

Newly born - Mokume Gane wedding rings

What a wonderfully vibrant mokume gane pattern. Master goldsmith Markus Wiesner has tried his hand at a completely new mokume gane pattern for our collection and created the Tornillo ring pair. We are absolutely thrilled by the vibrancy of this combination of yellow gold, palladium and silver. When creating mokume gane patterns, it is always very exciting for us to see whether the underlying idea is realized in the end or whether a completely different pattern emerges.

Sometimes our expectations are far exceeded, but sometimes our enthusiasm is limited. Nevertheless, our taste and our ideas about  MokumeGane wedding rings are not the main focus. Our valued customers and bridal couples decide what suits their individual taste. And that is how it should be. You alone decide on the colors, pattern and shape of your wedding rings. For example, if you like the pattern of the Tornillo rings but not the colors, Markus Wiesner will also make the Tornillo wedding rings:

  • Red gold instead of yellow gold
  • with platinum instead of palladium or
  • a mixture of red and yellow gold.

 View Mokume Gane rings Tornillo

The silver between the gold and platinum metals is necessary to achieve both the bright overall impression of the Tornillo wedding rings and to create the topography of the surface by subsequently reducing the silver layers with nitric acid.

We, Markus Wiesner and Michael Wiesner, will be happy to explain the many possibilities of mokume gane wedding rings from our goldsmiths during a consultation.



 

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