Mokume Gane Wedding Rings

Mokume Gane seamlessly forged - A special quality feature

Master Goldsmith Markus Wiesner forges your Mokume Gane wedding rings exclusively with the symbolic power of endlessness. This has long been standard for classic wedding rings. The basis for this is the very elaborate forging technique of splicing and spiking the Mokume Gane material. This is the only way to create rings and wedding rings whose pattern can be seen around the ring without any interruption or solder joint. We call this method also the seamless technique.

Besides the beautiful symbolism this technique offers further advantages. Band rings, as the rings soldered with butt joint are called in the technical language, show the already mentioned unsightly pattern interruption of the Mokume Gane. In addition, small pores often appear in the solder joint, or the colour of the solder clearly stands out from the actual colours of the Mokume Gane wedding rings.

Furthermore, this solder joint is very likely to break open if the width of the rings changes later. A repair is still possible by an experienced Mokume Gane blacksmith, but not without a significant change of the Mokume Gane pattern. In the following we show you two pictures of so-called band rings (with solder joint) of a foreign manufacturer, which we received for revision.

video: Wiesner Mokume Gane wedding rings in seamless technique

Mokume Gane wedding rings with clear solder joint | band rings with pattern interruption 

Pores in the solder joint of Mokume Gane wedding rings without seamless technique

With Mokume Gane rings there are differences in quality and price 

Are there Mokume Gane imitations?

If you take a closer look at the internet and some shops offering Mokume Gane you will notice that there are many different versions and qualities of this technique. The Japanese name Mokume Gane means nothing else but "wood-structured metal", and says nothing about the exact manufacturing method and quality of the ring or wedding ring.

As we are constantly encountering this uncertainty in our daily work in advising our customers, we would now like to provide all interested parties with a clarifying overview of the characteristics of this technique known to us so far. We have given a name to the previously known designs in order to distinguish them clearly from each other.

• GravoMokume
• MokumeCover
• MokumeSeam
• MokumeSeamless

We at "Wiesner - Die Goldschmiede" do not want to presume to declare something right or wrong. Everything has its justification when it is offered as what it is. However, it is important to us to call the different qualities by their names in order to solve any confusion among our esteemed interested parties.

Mokume Gane wedding rings from our workshop in seamless technique: 

Gravo Mokume (Pattern engraved):

The Gravo Mokume is a ring or wedding ring made of stainless steel, as well as precious metals such as yellow gold, white gold, red gold, etc., to which the pattern of a Mokume Gane wedding ring has been superficially added by means of engraving. The pattern of a Mokume Gane wedding ring has been added to the surface of the ring by means of engraving. Basically, this can be easily recognised by the fact that no pattern can be seen on the inside of the rings, or that the pattern itself does not show any two colours. If necessary, it is possible that an apparent two-colour effect has been produced by blackening the engraving with a laser or suitable chemicals. 

If the engraving is sufficiently deep, it might also be possible to cover the engraving with a second colour. For example, by incorporating yellow gold into the engraved pattern of a white gold ring. The production of a wedding ring in GravoMokume is relatively simple and quick. For example, with an engraving laser.

Mokume Cover (Mokume covered):

MokumeCover is a thin, usually 0.5 - 0.8 mm thick Mokume Gane sheet, which is wrapped around an existing stainless steel or precious metal wedding ring and soldered to it. It should be noted that the Mokume Gane sheet used is usually actually welded and patterned precious metal. Here, too, yellow gold, white gold, red gold, green gold, platinum or palladium, as well as silver may have been used. The combination of copper and silver is also frequently found in MokumeCover. 

MokumeCover, like GravoMokume, can first be recognised by the fact that the typical pattern on the inside and edges of the wedding rings is not to be found. Another distinguishing feature is the usually existing pattern interruption, which can be clearly recognised as a transverse line on the outside of the rings. In very rare cases, an endless pattern can also be found.

Compared to GravoMokume, MokumeCover wedding rings are somewhat more complex to produce. Changing the ring width, especially widening a wedding ring, is hardly possible with MokumeCover.

Mokume Seam (soldered band ring):

MokumeSeam wedding rings are also called band rings because of the way they are made in the goldsmith's trade. Here, a mokume gane strand is made from various precious metals, or possibly also non-precious metals, and rolled into a sufficiently long band.

The goldsmith then forges this band into a round ring until the two ends of the band touch. The wedding ring is then soldered there. 

This is a tried and tested technique of the goldsmith's craft for making rings or wedding rings. In this respect, this technique is of course also used in the production of many a Mokume Gane wedding ring. 

From time to time we could also find MokumeSeam wedding rings on the web, which were very cleverly soldered together diagonally in a diagonal pattern. Here, even the expert has to look closely to recognise the time-saving trick. MokumeSeam wedding rings can cause serious problems when the ring width is changed and break open at the solder joint.

Mokume Gane wedding rings in seamless technique (traditional technique, endless forged without hem)

This is the traditional forging technique of mokume gane wedding rings, as produced by any goldsmith who accepts and masters the challenge of splicing mokume gane material.

Basically, this is the only type of manufacturing that does justice to the symbolism of a wedding ring, namely endlessness. These traditionally made mokume gane wedding rings can be recognised by the pattern that is visible on the inside and outside and runs around the ring without interruption.  In addition to the advantage of not having any unsightly pattern interruptions, the ring width of endlessly crafted Mokume Gane wedding rings can be changed without any problems. 

"Wiesner - Die Goldschmiede" exclusively offers mokume gane in seamless technique (traditional technique, endless pattern).

Some insights into our Mokume Gane wedding ring workshop

Production of Mokume Gane wedding rings in our workshop 

Mokume Gane Wedding Rings | The Bar:

Master goldsmith: Markus Wiesner | Music: Michael Wiesner

Glow, roll, glow, roll | This is how Mokume Gane wedding rings are made

Mokume Gane wedding rings | The pattern is brought in

And forge and roll again.

Marking and drilling the Mokume Gane rings

What are Mokume Gane rings?

A special centuries-old Japanese forging technique

The Mokume Gane technique originated in Japan about 350 years ago. Mokume Gane wedding rings, which are made with this old Japanese forging art, are very special unique pieces. Mokume Gane wedding rings are created by welding together thin layers of precious metal, which are then forged and patterned. In this way, new and unique patterns and colour gradients are created again and again - depending on the precious metals and patterning techniques used. A pair of Mokume Gane rings is always made from one piece of welded base material. This way, both Mokume Gane wedding rings will look very similar to each other.

Hand-forged in countless different designs

Just as individual as the patterns of the Mokume Gane rings are, so individual can your wedding ring be made for you. The ladies' ring, for example, can be embellished with a single diamond as well as with many small stones.

Mokume Gane wedding rings made of precious metals

Whether gold, silver, platinum or palladium - we forge Mokume Gane rings for you in a wide variety of materials. We will be happy to make a very individual pair for you.

Wearing comfort of Mokume Gane partner rings

Of course, besides the appearance, the wearing comfort of partnership rings, i.e. also of Mokume Gane wedding rings, plays a major role. After all, the wedding ring accompanies you day after day. For this reason, the height, width and profile of the ring are adapted to your personal preferences.

Do you have any questions about Mokume Gane wedding rings?

We are always there for you. Whether in person in our shop or by phone - we will be happy to help you choose the perfect Mokume Gane wedding rings and advise you in detail. Let us inspire you and find the right wedding rings for your big day and for life in our studio. Is it also possible to make a single ring or engagement ring? In addition to the Wiesner Mokume Gane ring collection, we also make a jewellery collection and engagement ring for you using the Mokume Gane technique. We also produce customised jewellery rings.

Historical development of the Mokume Gane

Mokume Gane | jap.: wood-patterned metal | Historical development

 The Damascus Steel Fallacy

With the search for an improved material for the blades of weapons, the era of patterned metals also began. It was in Damascus that Europeans first found sabre weapons of exceptionally high quality steel. For this reason, the material is also mistakenly called Damascus steel by the crusaders. This weapon steel surprises above all by its hitherto unknown springiness and strength.

Patterned steel 

Furthermore, its wave-like and mottled patterns are fascinating. The 6th century Roman scholar Cassiodorus describes these weapons as "...forged by Vulcan..." and " ...not the work of a mortal, but the work of a god." Looking at the development of this new steel, it seems to have taken place independently in quite different areas of Europe as well as Asia.

From Rome to Malaysia

 Layered blades appear in Old Norse sagas as well as in archaeological excavations at sites dating back to the 2nd century and of Roman origin. The 13th century Malay dagger "Kris" is made of fire-welded steel. Several alternating layers of soft iron and steel form the dagger blade after multiple folding and forging as well as etching of the surface.

 Damascus steel in China and Japan

Layered steel appeared in China as early as the 1st century BC. The Japanese samurai, or rather their weaponsmiths, then developed layered steel to perfection. Here, the steel is enriched with carbon during the welding process.

 First Mokume Gane by Denbei Shoami

The bladesmith Shoami (1651-1728) from Akita in Japan made a name for himself with extraordinary works in steel as well as in softer materials alloyed with precious metals. For the first time he welded non-ferrous metals and decorated them artistically. He called it mokume gane (wood-textured metal). The Kizuka sword hilt, worked in mokume gane, is considered his first work. He used silver, gold and shakudo for it. Many old samurai swords have round or oval discs worked in mokume gane as blade ends and hand guards.

Why Mokume Gane is so pronounced in Japan?

There are several reasons why the technique of mokume gane became so well established in Japan. Two of them are certainly the highly developed art of sword making and the extensive knowledge in the field of metallurgy. The existence of large schools and an excellent exchange of information also favoured the far-reaching development of the mokume gane. In addition, there were unique coloured metal alloys in Japan, such as, Shakudo | Shibuishi | Kuromido.

 Precious metal was scarce

These predominantly copper alloys were created mainly due to the lack of precious metals such as gold and silver, which were very rare in Japan and therefore highly priced. There are no other known historical mokume gane works outside Japan.

Well-kept secrets

Why was the Mokume Gane technique not known outside Japan for a long time? For one thing, Japan was an isolated island until 1853. The techniques of Japanese artists and craftsmen were well guarded as secrets. In addition, mokume gane was an ancient tradition within the art of swordsmithing and was therefore reserved for that purpose.

Industrial Revolution in Europe suppresses Mokume Gane

Secondly, the industrial revolution developed in western countries, which meant that crafts and emotions that seemed alchemical were increasingly frowned upon. Instead, everything that could be produced quickly and cheaply in large quantities developed here.

 The turning point for the Mokume Gane

It was not until the sixties that jewellery began to change from being a purely decorative, prestigious financial investment to being viewed more and more from an artistic point of view. This was the basis for the discovery and further development of mokume gane in the USA in the seventies.

There, it was Hiroko Sato and Gene Pijanowski who began to work with the mokume gane in the seventies. After some unsatisfactory results, the two went to Japan to learn the classical Mokume Gane technique. Back home, they developed the Mokume Gane techniques further and produced, among other things, large vessels as well as pieces of jewellery.

• 1970: Soldered metal layers by George Sayer, USA
• 1978: Mc Cullum from England travelled to Japan to learn the Mokume Gane techniques and worked on great vessels back in England.
• 1980: Steven D. Kretschmer, USA, learned the Mokume Gane technique from Sato and Pijanoeski and from then on worked on gold Mokume Gane bars without the use of solder.

Since mokume gane requires a considerable amount of time and material, it was initially unable to spread for a long time due to both labour time and cost reasons.